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You lose a pub, and, if you’re really lucky, you get a pop-up restaurant instead…Not knowing quite what to expect I was delighted to find that we were going to be dining “en famille” or perhaps better “en village” at two long tables, meeting – and making- friends, and being excellently waited on by Pippa’s children. The menu was slightly exotic and in some cases intriguing! Were Moroccan chickpeas going to be decidedly different, and how do the Lebanese cook their chicken? – but the results were tasty and enjoyable. Pippa’s Pop-Up is transforming itself into the South Hinksey Supper Club and hopes to meet again, we are told, in mid-April.

Jo Slater